Frederick, Maryland

M* and I stopped by Frederick, Maryland on our way up to Falling Water. Having been there once before, I thought walking around the quaint, historic downtown and peeking in a few antique stores would be a nice way to spend a couple of hours. Maybe it was M*'s company or because Frederick has blossomed that I found the town more charming than on my last visit. Since M* and I have spent some time in abroad recently, we noticed the European influences. We confirmed our suspicions at the visitors' center where we learned that Germans were the main group founding the town (German was the dominant language in the area in its early days).

“(German immigrants) used art; it was not some esoteric thing apart from them. . . you worked in a colorful barn, lived in a stone house built for the ages with a motto carved under the eaves, ate pie out of an etched pie dish, and other foods cooked in a stove which had artistic original design, kept your linens in a museum-piece chest, dipped sugar out of a museum-piece sugar bowl, skimmed milk from lovely red-ware made on the potter's wheel, walked on rainbow-like rag rugs, slept under artistic bedspreads of original design, drank wine from museum-piece . . . .glass or spatter-ware, had a birth and marriage certificate of hand-illumined fractur [hand decorated manuscripts], sang out of hymn books illumined with fractur and worshipped with bibles similarly illumined. You rode in wagons gaily colored, watched the wind sway originally designed weather-vanes atop the barn, and saw even the barnyard made resplendent by peacocks." - Excerpted from Pennsylvania Dutch Cookery, J.George Frederick, 1936

Amy becomes one with the public art.

Colorful German style homes.

We also found a European ideal in the redevelopment of the downtown area–public space along the canal (that's what M* and I liked to call it as an ode to the Netherlands), mixed with businesses and residential housing. There is even a community bridge mural with an award-winning trompe l'oeil (I'm pictured above with a replica of "The Woman of Samaria").

The Baby Waker.

Frederick's "canal."

We also enjoyed imbibing a bit of American history–things we had both learned before, we're sure, at some point but could not recall or remember with clarity. One item on display is the Great Baby Waker—the cannon that signaled the end of the Revolutionary War. The front of the barrel is what remains after it exploded due to improper loading in 1844. The cannon is next to the Hessian barracks which were a prison for the Hessian soldiers captured during the war (M* and I both thought the Hessians fought on the side of the Americans—oops!). I've just read that the barracks, now a museum that is open on a limited basis to the public, "represents the finest of colonial military architecture in North America." Also, the limestone structure was the largest masonry structure in use by the military at that time. Who knew?!

Hessian barracks/prison.

M @ Tasting Room.

M*'s dessert: cranberry and blueberry bread pudding.

Another reason we liked this town so much was the interesting shops. We actually didn't even make it into the antique stores—though we passed many. We were distracted by the independent clothing and home stores and numerous eating establishments. A friend had recommended the Tasting Room, and we enjoyed a meal there before getting back on the road. The restaurant describes themselves, in the guide handed out at the visitors' center, as "combining the essence of historic Frederick and the modern styles of New York City." Sounds a bit much, but I think it's hard to describe oneself whether a person or business. My polenta with portabella mushrooms and an Italian cheese (can't remember the name) was both delicate and hearty. My glass of Viognier was quite good, although a tad too sweet. M* was please with his rockfish special and loved the high, original ceiling. In general, we found it a very relaxing spot. As they advertise their extensive martini list, I'm guessing it can be a quite a bit busier in the evenings.

As we headed out of town, I searched the visitors' guide to see if there would be a Christmas market in the area this season—Germans are know for their Christmas markets and Frederick was founded by Germans. There is: Maryland Christmas Snow is being held the two weekends after Thanksgiving. We're planning on attending (my mom might take M*'s place on that trip).